Gumbo: A tribute to the Sassafras TREE

Gumbo: A Tribute to Sassafras Leaves

In Louisiana cuisine, the file' powder used in gumbo originates from a Sassafras Tree.

Native Americans in Louisiana have used parts of the sassafras tree for hundreds, even thousands, of years. The Choctaw would grind the leaves into a powder, called filé by the French, and add it to soups as a thickener and flavoring. Sassafras root bark, its aroma sharp and sweet, was boiled to ease stomach pain or fevers, while a poultice helped cleanse wounds. Europeans quickly learned of the tree’s value, and as early as 1578 it was being shipped across the Atlantic. Sassafras grew immensely popular and was heralded as a cure-all thought to alleviate ailments like syphilis and even delay old age. The root bark became a popular way to scent soaps and perfume, as well as to flavor root beer. At one point in the 17th century, sassafras was one of the biggest exports from North America.

The popularity of sassafras declined after it was revealed that safrole, found in high concentrations in the roots, caused cancer in lab mice and rats over a long period of time (widely consumed foods like nutmeg also contain safrole). Safrole is banned by the Food and Drug Administration, and the European Commission labels the substance as carcinogenic. The leaves, deemed safe by the FDA, contain negligible levels of safrole and are still used today as the spice we know as file'. 

For hundreds of years, Louisiana Creoles have perpetuated Choctaw tradition by adding filé to their gumbos — a hefty pinch tossed in after the dish has cooked produces a thick broth and an aromatic finish. It’s still readily found in Louisiana gumbos, but hardly anyone harvests sassafras and makes their own filé. This cultural loss is what beckons me to tell the story and share this recipe (see gumbo recipe below).

Sassafras roots were also the primary ingredient in Root Beer until the FDA banned sassafras oil and its key component, safrole, for commercial use in foods and beverages due to potential carcinogenic effects. Today's Root Beer contains artificial flavoring.

Back when store-bought sodas were a luxury, many Louisiana families crafted their versions of root beer using sassafras roots as the key ingredient. Grandma would dig up fresh roots from her backyard or a nearby forest, wash them thoroughly, and boil them in a big, well-loved pot. Usually, a Magnalite pot. The earthy, spicy aroma would fill the entire house, blending sweet and minty notes into a comforting scent that signaled something special was brewing. For many families, root beer wasn’t just a drink—it was an experience tied to childhood memories, family traditions, and seasonal celebrations. Did your grandma ever make it for you?

It wasn’t just about the drink—it was about the process. From the sound of clinking glass bottles to the stories Grandma told while stirring the pot, it was a ritual of togetherness. Whether enjoyed at a summer picnic or a lazy Sunday afternoon, homemade root beer turned ordinary moments into extraordinary memories.

While sassafras roots were cherished for root beer, its leaves are the unsung heroes of Cajun and Creole cuisine, ground into filé powder to thicken and flavor gumbo. This ingredient, free of safrole, remains an essential part of Southern cooking to this very day.

Grow In Grace

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo Recipe

Ingredients:

• For the roux:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 1 cup vegetable oil

• For the gumbo:

• 1 lb andouille sausage, sliced

• 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into chunks

• 1 medium onion, diced

• 1 green bell pepper, diced

• 3 celery stalks, diced

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 6 cups chicken stock

• 1 cup sliced okra (optional)

• 2 bay leaves

• 2 tsp Cajun seasoning

• 1 tsp dried thyme

• Salt and pepper to taste

• 2 tbsp filé powder (optional, for thickening)

• Cooked white rice, for serving

• Fresh parsley and green onions, for garnish

Instructions:

1. Make the Roux: Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Gradually whisk in the flour, stirring constantly. Cook for 20-30 minutes until the roux reaches a deep chocolate-brown color.

2. Cook the Sausage and Chicken: Add the sausage and chicken pieces to the roux and cook for 5 minutes to brown slightly.

3. Add Vegetables: Stir in the onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic. Cook until softened.

4. Simmer the Gumbo: Pour in the chicken stock and add okra (if using), bay leaves, Cajun seasoning, thyme, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

5. Thicken with Filé: If desired, sprinkle filé powder into the gumbo at the end. Stir and let rest for 10 minutes.

6. Serve: Ladle gumbo over a scoop of rice and garnish with parsley and green onions.

Here's Grandma’s Root Beer method: 

1. Boiling the Base: She’d boil the sassafras roots with water to create a dark, fragrant tea. Sometimes, cinnamon, cloves, or vanilla beans were added for extra depth.

2. Sweetening the Brew: Once the base was ready, brown sugar, molasses, or honey was stirred in to create a rich, caramel-like sweetness.

3. Adding the Fizz: To create bubbles, yeast was added, and the mixture was carefully bottled and left to ferment for a few days. Grandma knew just when to chill it to prevent over-fermentation or those infamous bottle explosions!

4. The Reward: Poured over chipped ice into frosty glasses, her root beer was often topped with a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream for a root beer float that tasted like pure joy.